Wednesday, October 10, 2012

Side Tie Bloomers {Tutorial}

Hello out there. Yes It's been forever (a whole year!) and sorry to say I'm not really coming back, especially since I now have a little one to love. But I forgot I did have this post in the drafts almost finished. So remember the Picnic-check Bloomers J.Crew Knockoff? Since I got a request recently for the tutorial, here it is... finally. Hopefully someone will find this useful.

Although it's getting colder I thought these would be adorable layered with tights/leggings and little girl boots. Year round, bloomer cuteness!

This pair is actually smaller than the originals I made, because i didn't have my niece around the first time to double check. 

You will need:
  • Cotton Fabric (pre-washed, I think I used close to a yard)
  • Matching thread
  • Elastic 1/2" wide (for legs)
  • Elastic 3/4" wide (for waist)
Notes: Not included in each step is IRONING. Ironing your seams open and then the way they need to go makes a big difference in your finished garment. For these shorts I finished the raw edges of the seam allowances by trimming to 1/4" and zig-zag stitched (this prevents fraying). If you have a serger then of course that's even better.
  1. First you need to cut out a pattern. You can either trace your child's own shorts adding extra room for seam allowances, or measure your child and adapt this pattern like I did. Basically I added standard seam allowances 5/8" everywhere except the top and leg openings. Add 1/2" to bottom leg openings (for elastic casing). Also I created a side seam with 5/8" seam allowances. You need a side seam to insert the gathered tie.
  2. Once you adjust the pattern, pin it to the fabric with the arrow parallel to selvedge and fold. Cut!
  3. Cut 2 rectangles. Mine were 15" by 7" (can add length for larger shorts).  These are your ties. I cut mine on fold with length 7.5" (it will double).
  4. Gather one short end of each rectangle. Baste 1/4" from seam allowance and then again at the seam allowance. Pull the bobbin thread to gather. Should end up being around 5" on gathered end.
  5. Finish the two long edges of the ties (short edge will be finished later). Turn edge 1/4" press. Fold 1/4" again, press, stitch close to the fold.
  6. Pin & Sew back seam of bloomers together. Finish edges. Mark Back.
  7. Pin & Sew front seam of bloomers together. Finish edges.
  8. Pin & Sew crotch of front and back together. Finish edges.
  9. Pin gathered edge of ties to front sides 2" down from top edge. Be sure the right side of bloomers faces wrong side of tie. Sew 1/8" in from seam allowance (I sewed at 1/2").
  10. Sew side fronts to side backs, right sides together (be careful to keep end of ties out of the way). Finish edges.
  11. Create leg casings. Fold and iron 1/4". Fold and press 3/4" (for 1/2" wide elastic). Sew close to fold, be sure to leave opening for elastic (don't backstitch, pull through and knot). Do this for both leg openings.
  12. Measure & Cut 2 pieces of 1/2"wide elastic. Desired Length (leg) + 1". Insert with safety pin. Overlap ends of elastic by 1/2" (make sure it's not twisted) and secure by sewing in X pattern. Sew opening of casing closed (don't backstitch, pull threads through to wrong side of fabric and knot). Do this for both legs.
  13. Create Waistband casing. Fold top edge 1/4" press. Fold again 1" & press (for 3/4" wide elastic). Leaving opening, sew close to fold.
  14. Measure & Cut waistband elastic. Desired length (waist) + 1". Insert with safety pin. Overlap ends of elastic by 1/2" and secure with X pattern. Sew opening of casing closed (pull threads through and knot).
  15. Now just tie your rectangles/ties how you want them. If you need to shorten the ties (I didn't) untie them & cut (remember you need an extra 1/2" to finish edge). Once you like the length, finish the tie edges by turning 1/4" two times and sewing close to fold. You're done!
Just FYI in case you decide to use different sized elastic this is the general rule for making casings:
-Turn fabric under 1/4" then turn again your elastic width plus 1/4".

Let me know if you make them, I'd love to see yours!

I'm signing off for now, but if you have questions let me know and I'll respond now and then. Thanks for following!